Monthly Archive for February, 2008

This morning I read a Daily Candy email that a new restaurant in San Francisco is opening called Orson. A particular sentence caught my eye:

The focus of the menu: edgy Californian. Dishes like butterfish brûlée with caviar and radish play with technique.

I am wary anytime I see “butterfish” on a menu. Butterfish is a name given to several species of fish, most commonly the escolar, which is also known as the oilfish or “olestra fish.” From the Wikipedia entry:

“Like its relative the oilfish, Ruvettus pretiosus, the escolar is consumed in several European and Asian countries, as well as in the USA. Neither fish metabolises the wax esters (Gempylotoxin) naturally found in their diet, which causes an oil content in the muscle meat of the fish amounting to 18–21%. These wax esters may rapidly cause gastrointestinal symptoms following consumption; however, these effects are usually short lived.

The gastrointestinal symptoms, called “keriorrhoea”, caused by these wax esters may include oily orange diarrhea, discharge, or leakage from the rectum that may smell of mineral oil. The discharge can stain clothing and occur without warning 30 minutes to 36 hours after consuming the fish. The oil may pool in the rectum and cause frequent urges for bowel movements due to its lubricant qualities and may be accidentally discharged by the passing of gas. Symptoms may occur over a period of one or more days. Other symptoms may include stomach cramps, loose bowel movements, diarrhea, headaches, nausea, and vomiting.

To minimize the risk of symptoms, strict control of portion size is recommended. Portions should be no greater than 6 ounces.

For these reasons, escolar has been banned from consumption in Japan since 1977, as the Japanese govenrment believes it to be toxic. In the United States, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, after receiving complaints about diarrhea associated with escolar consumption, issued a bulletin recommending against import of the fish in the early 1990s. However, the FDA backed away from this recommendation and withdrew the bulletin several years later after deciding the fish was nontoxic and nonlethal.”

Escolar is also sold under the name walu. Other blog/news reports on “butterfish” surprises in your underwear:

Butterfish and escolar causes GI problems
The popular fish that might ruin your evening—and your clothes

Can we say “DO NOT WANT?”  I’m hoping that the butterfish brûlée is not escolar in disguise.  Dine at your own risk, and pack a spare pair of clean underwear when you leave the house the next day, just in case.